Copyright 2007 Cockatiel Foundation, Inc.
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ARTICLE
| EGG-LAYING BEHAVIORS & PROBLEMS Part 2 of a 3-part Series Part II: Helping Cockatiel Hens During the Egg-laying Cycle © 2000-2007 LINDA S. RUBIN Originally published in December 2000 issue of BIRD TIMES Magazine & CAGE & AVIARY BIRDS, UK, July 12, 2007 "All Rights Reserved" |
| When a female cockatiel approaches her first birthday, it is not uncommon for her to lay a round of eggs. This activity can occur independent of whether the hen has a suitable mate, or whether she has access to an appropriate nesting site or nest box. Laying a clutch of eggs is prompted by the development of reaching sexual maturity; a stage that triggers hormones to proceed as nature intended. However, this stage can often be a nerve- racking experience for many cockatiel owners, especially for the novice birdkeeper or new owner. Yet, there are precautions to take that will help during this difficult period and even deter hens from laying future clutches of eggs. Several conditions are necessary in order to stimulate a hen to reproduce and begin to lay a clutch of eggs. In the wild, cockatiels nest during the rainy season when the growth of food is abundant. Additional prerequisites include the correct temperature, humidity, an acceptable bonded mate, and a suitable nesting site. In captivity, and for many pet cockatiels, these conditions may be provided without the owner’s awareness. For example, if a suitable diet is offered, and especially if soft food is given daily, it is likely that most nutritional needs are being met. This does not imply that you should stop feeding these foods, since adequate nutrition is paramount to good health. However, if you are feeding extras on a daily basis that qualify as “soft foods,” such as a corn/rice/bean addition, or egg food and the like, you may want to cut back and offer these conditioning and breeding foods perhaps only once or twice a week. Fresh dark green leafy vegetables, and orange/yellow vegetables high in vitamin A should continue to be offered daily in addition to a pelleted or extruded product and a well-rounded feed mix fortified with vitamins and minerals. Cockatiels are one of the few species in which it is unhealthy to feed pelleted products as the sole food, therefore seed and vegetables should be included in the diet. Many breeders who reproduce cockatiels indoors often do so in normal room temperature (68-72 degrees), or even lower. Cockatiels certainly do not need hothouse conditions to breed. In fact, it is healthier to keep the environment slightly cooler, than to have it too warm. Humidity can be measured and either increased or decreased if necessary. If the air is too dry, embryos will adhere to the egg membrane unable to rotate in the shell, conversely, if the humidity is too high, it can cause an embryo to drown. If your cockatiel lives in an environment with normal room temperature and satisfactory humidity, then these two conditions to prepare for egg laying are being met. Often a broody cockatiel hen ready to lay eggs will tear paper at the bottom of her cage to prepare a bare, hollow impression for her eggs. Some will instead select an unlikely place - from your point of view - for the perfect nesting site. These nesting sites can range from an open drawer, to a hidden space within a bookcase, on top of high furniture, to even under the bed. What may seem appropriate to your cockatiel may not always make sense to you, so be aware of prospective nesting sites in which your hen may show interest. The final condition of mating behavior is finding and accepting an appropriate mate. It might surprise you to learn that if you are constantly picking up, holding, and touching your cockatiel, it is likely that your cockatiel has bonded with you as her chosen mate and is proceeding to do as instinct dictates: complete her biological urge to lay a round of eggs and preserve her genes. Cockatiel owners should not be discouraged to interact with their female cockatiels at this time; but it is best not to touch the rump area because it may imitate a potential breeding attempt where the male would mount her for mating. There are ways to enable a cockatiel hen to get through the egg-laying period successfully, and even to deter the laying of future clutches. First and most important, NEVER remove eggs once they are laid. Wait until the hen is ready to abandon the eggs on her own, and never remove eggs until they are at least one week beyond hatching date according to when the hen first began to incubate the eggs. Many cockatiels, especially inexperienced hens, will not begin to sit full time until the second or third egg is laid. Because eggs are produced approximately every 48-52 hours apart, the hen may not begin to sit continuously until several days after the appearance of the first egg. The reason you should never remove eggs is that it will only stimulate a hen to lay additional eggs to replace the ones it lost. This is a biological survival mechanism because if an egg becomes a casualty in the wild (for example, if an egg is eaten by a predator), the hen is stimulated to replace that casualty with another egg to make up the difference. Normal incubation in cockatiel eggs ranges from 18 to 22 days, depending upon when the hen first begins to sit the eggs full time. Removing cockatiel eggs before incubation is complete will prompt the hen to lay another round of eggs, which is why some cockatiel owners unknowingly cause serious calcium depletion in their hens. It takes enormous reserves of energy, minerals, and especially calcium, to produce new eggs. Laying clutch after clutch can cause dangerous deficiencies of calcium and other reserves. Always offer a fresh cuttlebone to supply calcium and plenty of calcium-loaded dark green, leafy vegetables (the lettuce and cabbage family is next to useless in nutritional value). In the future, try to convert your hen to a partially pelleted or extruded diet prior to egg-laying activities. Do not attempt a conversion to pellets while going through the egg laying cycle, as it is not the appropriate time to change the diet or risk food deprivation should the new foods be refused. Next: strategies for dealing with continuous egg-laying, and risky egg-laying behavior injurious to a hen’s health. |
| "Providing Resources to the Cockatiel Community" The Cockatiel Foundation, founded in June 2007, began out of a growing need in the avicultural community to offer its members programs for pet owners, breeders and exhibitors, in addition to services never before addressed in the cockatiel community. CF is establishing a Cockatiel Adoption & Placement Program to hrlp in the placement and rehoming of cockatiels to new, permanent "forever" homes. CF offers a wealth of information on color genetics, mutations, and breeding research. CF is addressing the needs of our Youth Members in the CF Youth & Education Program developed for tomorrows' next generation of cockatiel afficionados. Please visit our unique LOST & FOUND Center to report and reunite birds with their owners! Joining the Foundation When you join the Foundation as a Member, you will receive many benefits, including the Cockatiel Chronicle and have access to the Members' Only Yahoo Group for chat, PHOTO CONTEST, Members' Articles & more! Please read about our Membership benefits and peruse the website. COME JOIN US! |
| Linda S. Rubin is an aviculturist, lecturer and avian educator of 30 years, with an international byline in avicultural magazines around the world and author of several books at www.CockatielsPlusParrots.com. She is the cockatiel expert columnist for Bird Talk’s website, BirdChannel.com, writes as an overseas columnist for Cage & Aviary Birds (United kingdom), and she serves on the board of directors as National Specialty Vice President for the American Federation of Aviculture, Inc. She is the founding president and genetics consultant of the Cockatiel Foundation, Inc. Linda is a certified panel judge for the Cockatiel Foundation, and the Society of Parrot Breeders & Exhibitors, judging shows throughout the US, Puerto Rico, and Canada since 1984. |
| Disclaimer Articles on this website are not meant to take the place of proper veterinary and other medical care. If your bird appears ill or shows symptoms of illness, please contact your avian veterinarian as quickly as possible. Birds are prey animals and hide their symptoms in order to survive; by the time owners see symptoms, a bird may have become extremely ill. Owners are advised to seek medical attention immediately. To find an avian veterinarian in your area, contact the Association of Avian Veterinarians at www.aav.org. |
c. 2007 Shirley J. Bigham
c. 2005 Linda S. Rubin
Cockatiel Foundation, Inc.