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ARTICLE
EGG-LAYING  BEHAVIORS & PROBLEMS
Part 3 of a 3-part Series

Part III: Stimulating Triggers & Birth Control Methods

© 2000-2007 LINDA  S. RUBIN

Originally published in February 2001 issue of  BIRD TIMES Magazine &
CAGE & AVIARY BIRDS, UK, August 2, 2007
"All Rights Reserved"
Uncontrollable egg-laying in cockatiels can be frustrating for companion bird owners, and often life threatening for
cockatiel hens.  The over-production of eggs, or an irregular pattern of laying eggs, can rob a hen of the necessary
calcium needed to form her eggs that can have devastating circumstances.  
Examples of abnormal egg-laying include laying an egg daily or every few days rather than every other day; laying a
round of eggs on the heels of an earlier clutch; or continuously laying eggs nonstop for weeks.  If allowed to
continue, eventually calcium will be drawn from the hen’s own bones leaving them vulnerable to fractures, serious
osteoporosis, and the dangers of soft-shelled eggs, egg-binding, and egg peritonitis, all of which can be fatal.


Once eggs are laid, do not remove them! Always allow the hen to incubate should she choose to, otherwise she
will merely lay another round to immediately replace the clutch she lost.  This effort will only tax her resources and
rob her calcium supply further.


Cockatiels are stimulated to reproduce when six necessary conditions are present in their environment: ideal
temperature, proper humidity, increased photo-light period, appropriate seeding grasses (or soft foods) for feeding
young, a suitable nesting site, and an acceptable mate – bird or human.  To stop the production of eggs, first try to
reverse some or all of the above conditions.


Ideal temperatures for cockatiels vary. Although primarily a desert bird living in arid regions of the interior of
Australia, the domesticated cockatiel can adapt to most any temperature comfortable for humans.  Breeders who
house their collections outdoors usually breed only during the warm or comfortable months, avoiding the colder
chill of winter that can cause egg-binding. If birds are weathered outdoors, a heat source and some shelter should
be provided.


Breeders who house cockatiels indoors attempt to keep them at room temperature within the 68-72 degrees
comfort zone. Many aviculturists maintain their flocks at slightly cooler, rather than overly warm temperatures, in
order to keep them hardy. However, when deterring a cockatiel from laying eggs, it will require all the warmth and
supportive nurturing provided at this stressful time.


Humidity can also affect egg-laying because humidity effects the ability of the embryo to turn in its shell. However,
more often, cockatiels that over-produce eggs are kept as companion birds and therefore their eggs do not contain
fertile embryos. Constant baths may be somewhat stimulating, so eliminate frequent spray mistings until egg-
laying events are over.


The photolight period is one element that can be manipulated when cockatiels are kept indoors. Cockatiels
normally require at least 10 hours of darkness each night and hens may be stimulated to lay eggs when they are
exposed to an increase in the amount of daylight hours they receive.


In the wild, increased daylight means more time for parent cockatiels to search for food for their hungry chicks,
which adds to the clutches’ chance for survival. To reverse such a hormonal trigger, a decrease in the amount of
daylight hours and a corresponding increase in the hours of darkness may be enough to stop over-stimulated
birds from future laying. However, do not overdo the exercise; make certain your bird has enough light to eat, and to
remain healthy and psychologically content.


In the wild, cockatiels will search out seeding grasses to feed their chicks. Eliminating or cutting back on the
amount of daily soft foods you provide, for example, soaked, sprouted seeds, egg food, or any table foods in
combination with the reduction of other stimulating elements such as the photolight period, might help deter egg-
laying. It is crucial that you still provide optimum nutrition at this stressful time and make certain birds are actually
eating.


Some hens will very nearly starve to death rather than leave their eggs to feed. Under normal circumstances, the
male will share in the incubation duties, so to aid your hen, place favorite foods within easy reach. Surround the
hen with a layer of seeds or pellets, whatever is her normal diet, so she may eat while incubating her clutch. This is
not the time to start converting a bird to a pelleted diet! Millet spray placed within easy reach is almost never refused
and will add calories to the diet. However, in the event a cockatiel hen is very thin from not eating, do not deprive her
of any soft foods, table foods,  favorites such as corn, whole-wheat bread, or other easy to eat choices she desires.


To disrupt the chosen nest site, wait until the hen has abandoned her clutch of eggs - usually after the 18-22 day
incubation period (depending upon when the hen first starts to incubate full time) - then move her to another
location. A further disorientation could include returning her to a flight cage, changing her cage, transferring her to
another room, or other disruption to her routine “home.”  


The most challenging condition would be to remove a bonded mate (if one is present), which may prove difficult. If
the hen is pair bonded to a male, the birds may continue to worry and call out to one another. This may be more
stressful than helpful. Instead, it may be easier to manipulate the other factors that stimulate breeding behavior.


veterinary treatment should be sought from a board certified diplomate in avian medicine.  A trained avian
veterinarian may recommend hormonal therapy, or in severe cases, surgical removal of the oviduct (hysterectomy).
An exciting event on the horizon is the development of a vaccine pZP, porcine zona pellucida, from swine, that has
been found to be a safe, effective immunocontraceptive in several animal studies including horses and elephants.
Studies are underway to see if the vaccine, which affects the yolk sac membrane, will prevent ovulation in birds. In
essence, the vaccine could be an effective birth control option that prevents birds from laying eggs. Future studies
will reveal additional information on the vaccine, its efficacy, and whether repeated vaccinations will have any long-
term effects on birds.  


For information to find a board certified avian diplomate in your area, contact the Association of Avian Veterinarians
at www.aav.org. Click on “Finding a Vet” under the “Public Area” and enter the state or the country in which you live:

http://aav.org/vet-lookup/
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Linda S. Rubin is an aviculturist, lecturer and avian educator of 30 years, with an international byline in avicultural magazines around
the world and author of several books at
www.CockatielsPlusParrots.com. She is the cockatiel expert columnist for Bird Talk’s
website, BirdChannel.com, writes as an overseas columnist for Cage & Aviary Birds (United kingdom), and she serves on the board of
directors as National Specialty Vice President for the American Federation of Aviculture, Inc. She is the founding president and genetics
consultant of the Cockatiel Foundation, Inc.  Linda is a certified panel judge for the Cockatiel Foundation, and the Society of Parrot
Breeders & Exhibitors, judging shows throughout the US, Puerto Rico, and Canada since 1984.
Disclaimer
Articles on this website are not meant to take the place of proper veterinary and other medical care. If your bird appears ill or shows
symptoms of illness, please contact your avian veterinarian as quickly as possible. Birds are prey animals and hide their symptoms in order
to survive; by the time owners see symptoms, a bird may have become extremely ill. Owners are advised to seek medical attention
immediately. To find an avian veterinarian in your area, contact the Association of Avian Veterinarians at
 www.aav.org.
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c. 2005 Linda S. Rubin
Cockatiel Foundation, Inc.